Asparagus Hollandaise Risotto

It's a secret obsession of any blogger to be the first one to try something out.  It's never as much fun writing creeds of cookery when you know that every one of New Zealand's food blogs have already done the same post as you.  With every second person who has elevated themselves from takeaway pizza and a Sunday roast now writing a food blog it can be hard to be original.

So it is that I proudly declare some originality.  I have not been able to find the following words in this order on google.  Asparagus, Hollandaise, Risotto.

 Maybe there's a reason for that.  Maybe others have thought this one through, then produced curdled sickly results which could never be mentioned again.  Maybe others have thought there is no reason to tarnish a perfectly simple dish with one extra added flavor. Maybe others are considering their waists and refuse to indulge their midweek risotto in a little bit of naughtiness.

And so it is that I am prepared to sacrifice my cooking dignity, my waistline, and my tastebuds to this experiment.  In truth I only have the last of that trio in tact so there's not much to lose.

The inspiration came from the new season Asparagus which most foodies are very partial too.  The kind of delight that vegetable purists would say to leave alone.  Season it and then grace it with a bit of butter.  That's it.  I am very fond of 'naked' Asparagus, however it isn't that substantial is it?

I needed something to fill it out and my mind could not get away from Hollandaise sauce.  If you've never made your own Hollandaise you really must give it a go.  After a few attempts you'll have it down pat and it's one of those sauces that just can't be replicated by any of the bottled varieties.  Silky and buttery with just a little hint of tang a good Hollandaise will envelop and ooze over whatever it adorns.

The most alarming aspect of attempting this yourself will be that you will now know the contents of that delicious sauce you've been having over your eggs every time you head to the local cafe.  It's hard to feel guilt free when the evidence is right in front of you.

It has a reputation of being temperamental.  Seizing or curdling without warning.  And that's where the practice comes in.  Take things slow and you'll soon get the feel for it.  The trick is to ensure that the clarified butter is whisked in bit by bit, waiting for the last lot to emulsify, before adding any more.

As an experienced sauce man I can knock out a Hollandaise in around 15 minutes but you should give yourself twice that if you're new to the technique.

Now this recipe comes in two parts.  The sauce, and the Risotto.  Each has it's uses on it's own.  You can prepare the Hollandaise first and put to one side while you then get stuck into the Risotto.

Asparagus, Hollandaise Risotto

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 60 minutes

Serves: 4-6

Hollandaise Sauce

1 Tbsp white wine vinegar

1 Tbsp water

4 lightly crushed whole peppercorns

2 egg yolks

120g unsalted butter, clarified.

1 Tbsp Lemon Juice.

pinch of cayenne pepper.

1. To clarify the butter cut into small cubes and then put into a saucepan.  Heat gently until the milk solids (white, frothy bits) start to separate from the fat (clear yellow liquid).  Carefully pour the clear liquid into a pouring jug and put to one side. 
2. In a small saucepan place the vinegar, water, and peppercorns and put on a low heat.  Bring to the boil, it will only take a minute.  Reduce the volume by half.
3. Remove from the heat, strain the liquid into a heatproof glass bowl and then leave to cool.
4. Add the egg yolks to the liquid and whisk together.
5. Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water where the base of the bowl is just above, but not touching, the water.  Whisk the mixture for 5-6 minutes until it thickens and s ribbon-like, creamy, and smooth in texture.
6. Take the bowl off the heat and then place on a folded tea towel, which will prevent it moving.  You are going to need your hands for other things!  Slowly add the clarified butter pouring it into the mixture in a thin stream and whisking until the sauce is thick and glossy.  This is the part to take extra care with!  I would only add a Tbsp at a time to start so you can see the actual change that occurs as you mix in the butter.  Once you're confident you can start to add more at a time.
7. Next is the seasoning.  Lemon juice, salt, a dash of cayenne pepper and some white pepper.  Taste and adjust, taste and adjust.  If you get it just right it should give you shivers down the spine!

The Risotto

600 ml Chicken/Vege Stock

1/4 cup wine

100g Aborio Rice

1/2 onion choped finely

2 Tbsp Butter

1 Tbsp Olive Oil

1 bunch Asparagus

1/2 cup frozen peas

1. Place the stock in a medium saucepan and put onto a medium heat.  You want the stock to be simmering, but not boiling for when you add it to the risotto.
2. Melt the butter and the olive oil in a larger saucepan.  Add the onion and gently sweat for a few minutes on a medium heat.  Add the aborio rice and cook for a further 2-3 minutes.  You want to toast the rice in the oil.  It should start to go opaque.  Add the wine and let it cook off.
3. Add the stock 1/3 cup at a time, stirring frequently until the stock has absorbed and then repeating that process until the rice is al dente  This should take about 20 minutes.  Remove the Risotto from the heat.
4. Cut the woody ends off your Asparagus and peel off any woody nodules.  Place the Asparagus and the frozen peas into a saucepan of boiling water and cook for 3-4 minutes until the Asparagus are tender but still have some bite.
5. Drain then combine the vegetables with the Risotto.  Add half the Hollandaise to the Risotto and mix together.  Serve the Risotto and then finish by spooning over some more of the Hollandaise.
6. The result is extraordinarily decadent.  So much so that in future I might limit myself to starter portions!  The above would make about 6 smaller portions which would go down a treat.  Just make sure you don't have anyone on a diet coming round!

Bacon wrapped Monkfish on Pea Risotto with a Burnt Lemon Butter

 
One of the best starts to a sentence that, 'Bacon wrapped'.  There were a few catch phrases in the Masterchef house.  We would spend quite a bit of time in each others company during the show, often with not a lot to do, so there was a fair amount of banter going on and some things stuck more than others.

The boys came up with an 'if all else fails' catch cry:  'If in doubt wrap it in bacon and deep fry it.  Everything's better wrapped in Bacon.'  Very wise words those, except for vegetarians......and certain religions...and Bacon hater's....The world hasn't come to that though has it?  People who don't like Bacon.  I understand those who don't eat bacon due to principle but that aside surely everyone likes Bacon.  Not liking Bacon just seems weird.  It's like not liking Hugs, or wishing Sunday evening would go a bit quicker.

Fresh from the fish markets I had picked up some tasty Monkfish fillets.  I first encountered this fish in the Gastropubs of London, where it is commonplace to find it wrapped in bacon or prosciutto.  A mild tasting fish it is distinct because of its meaty flesh.  Often called the poor man's lobster, due to it's meaty texture and mild flavor, the Monkfish has to be up there as one of the ugliest fish around.  You certainly won't see this being served whole on a platter!  I'll spare the squeamish and not put a photo up but google it if you are intrigued!

After wrapping the Monkfish fillets in bacon I'm going to serve it on a lovely pea risotto and serve it with a burnt lemon butter, where we get melted butter to that proper, nutty, colored stage and then freshen it up with lemon juice and zest.  This dish is a real star.  The classic flavors of pea, bacon and lemon work with the fish so well.  If I did ever open my own Kiwi Gastropub this would definitely make it to the menu!

Ingredients

400g  monkfish tail fillets cut into 2 fillets with tapered ends.
eight strips of streaky smoked bacon
Few sprigs of Thyme

1 litre Chicken Stock
1/4 cup wine
200g Aborio Rice
1/2 onion choped finely
2 Tbsp Butter
1 Tbsp Olive Oil
1 cup Frozen Peas

30g Butter
Zest and Juice of 1 Lemon

Method:

 Lay out the Monkfish fillets on a board and sprinkle over the thyme leaves and season with salt and pepper.  Place one fillet on top of the other so each end has one thick and one thin end of the fillets.
Lay the bacon on a board with each piece slightly overlapping and then place the Monkfish slightly to one side as in the picture.
Wrap the Bacon around the fillets.  Wrap the rolled bacon and fillets tightly in cling film and then place in the fridge for about 30 minutes.  This will keep the bacon in shape when cooking.

Put the oven on Grill at about 200C.  Unwrap the cling film and then place onto a grill pan with the bacon joins facing down.  Grill for about 15-20 minutes turning every 5 minutes to get all parts of the bacon crispy.  The fish is cooked when it feels firm when pressed on top.

To make the pea risotto melt 1 Tbsp butter in a small saucepan.  Add the frozen peas and cook for a few minutes until defrosted.  Add chicken stock until the peas are just covered, about 1/4 a cup, and cook for a few more minutes.  Place the cooked peas and stock in a food processor and puree.  Put to one side.

Place the remaining stock in the saucepan and put onto a medium heat.  You want the stock to be simmering, but not boiling for when you add it to the risotto.

Melt the remaining butter and the Olive Oil in another saucepan.  Add the onion and fry for a few minutes.  Add the aborio rice and cook for a further two minutes stirring constantly.  Add the wine and let it cook off.

Now the next part of the process differs from cook to cook.  Some people make their risotto by putting all the stock in at once and then leaving the rice for 20 minutes.  I go the other way, adding a ladle at a time, stirring constantly until the stock has absorbed and then repeating that process until the rice is al dente.  I find this method produces a creamier risotto, even if it is more work.

Either way you go, just before all the stock has been absorbed, towards the end of cooking, add the pureed peas and stir thoroughly.  Season the rice to taste.

Lemon butter.  Notice the color of the butter.  A light shade of brown

To make the burnt lemon butter place the butter in a frying pan and melt.  When melted add the lemon zest.  Cook the butter gently until it starts to turn light brown and produces a nutty aroma.  Be careful as you don't want to actually burn the butter.  When ready add the lemon juice.

To serve spoon the risotto into the middle of a plate.  Slice the monkfish into about six pieces and place on top of the risotto.  Drizzle the lemon butter around the risotto.

Meaty fish, salty bacon, creamy sweet pea risotto and sharp citrusy butter.  Heaven!

Enjoy with your favorite white wine.

Have you ever cooked with Monkfish?  What are some of your favorite things to wrap in bacon?